Violin Forum/Message Board

Menessis · Junior Member Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 10

I am about to start my first Violin. I have the mold made and the blocks. Now I'm thinking of linings. I'm wondering if there is any reason why I can't cut the taper on the linings before gluing them in. Does it make it harder to bend them, clamp them. It just seems like it would be a lot easier to do first is all.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks
Mike

actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

pre-tapering does make them a lot harder to bend... in addition, you may or may not be planning to mortise the mid bout linings into the blocks... if that is your plan, pre-tapering is going to make cutting out a mortise without gaps more difficult.

BTW... trimming the linings back to a triangle shape is not hard at all... in my view not worth trying to avoid by pre-bending. You will find that the top and bottom bouts are the hardest to trim, especially if you use willow, as the effect of bending the wood compresses the fibres, but still not that hard if you have a sharp knife.

mapleleaf_gal · Member Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 73 Location: tucson, az

i am not quite sure i follow. are you talking about tapering the end that gets glued into the blocks? or are you talking about the overall shape where you put a nice rounded edge on the entire lining?

if you are talking about the end that you glue into the block, you dont have to taper it. you can glue it in like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mapleleaf_gal/2402912812/
i think that is way easier than tapering it.
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jessupe goldastini · Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:43 am Post subject:

as acertone has pointed out if you cut the taper after you bend them, this is very easy to do, a sharpe knife will have the rough trimming done in no time....if you do it before hand the bend may allow for bad curves and tilting on the iron...practice shaving on straight practice lining...

a good way to stabalize your working angle is to hold the knife at your belly blade side to you,{sounds crazy} but the hand and knife stay stationary you pull the lining accross the knife from the middle of the arch carefully pull it off the end, turn it around and do the other half, the middle bouts may be done the same way but in reverse and or outside edge.....

Menessis · Junior Member Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 10

Hey thanks for all the replies. I kind new that already but thought I would ask anyways.

But now I have another question! After looking at Mapleleaf_gal's pic (very nice BTW) I'm thinking my corner blocks are a lot smaller than most. I used an outside pattern for a mold to get the pattern I'm using for a Strad. From the book "Violin Making As it Was and Is". I wanted to use the inside mold. But I screwed up and used the measurements from the inside mold drawing for my blocks which is a 1734 Guarnerius ! My upper blocks would end up being about 20mm across when done.

What do you think of this one. Will I be getting out the saw and making some more room ?

Menessis

P.S. More dumb questions to follow LOL

Dave Chandler · Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 2:03 pm Post subject: Linings

You're so early in the project, I'd stop and regroup, get the form where you want it and proceed again. One thing I've learned, if you discover you've departed from the plan, stop and get back on track. Continuing on will just require that you make adjustments to everything that follows.
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Menessis · Junior Member Joined: 06 Mar 2008 Posts: 10

Yes I came to that conclusion last night. I wasn't too far from Exotic Woods so in I went and grabbed a couple of neck blanks and more wood for blocks as well as a piece for linings. A few cuts with the back saw...a little Varathane and all is good.

Thanks to all

Menessis

BK · Member Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60

Is there a benefit to using willow for linings and blocks instead of spruce?

Chet Bishop · Posted: Wed Aug 10, 2011 11:47 am Post subject:

Try it...I think it is a matter of preference.

I have used both, and I prefer the willow. Although I will say, there are different kinds of willow--some work very well, others not at all. Someone gave me some "Curly Willow" which is used as an ornamental tree. It behaved entirely differently than any other willow I had used-- broke before bending, with or without heat.

Weeping willow (at least I think that was what it was) was the best I have used, and Black willow is OK, too. Elon Howe in Michigan has black willow for sale.

The willow linings carve very easily, with less tendency to split than the spruce. Blocks may be a little harder, possibly stronger-- less prone to splitting than spruce, but also more difficult to carve, sometimes.

I think the willow is easier to bend, and it stays bent better, if heat is used.

I do the beveling after the glue has dried.

As I said, though, it is mostly a matter of preference, I think.
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BK · Member Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60

Great. Thanks Chet.

I think I may try it out just so that I can figure out which one I prefer to use.

Will let you know how it goes.

-BK

Dave Chandler · Posted: Sat Aug 13, 2011 6:03 pm Post subject: Linings

I really like a fine grain spruce, both for blocks and linings, and split all the way down to useable size, so that when you do trim the bevel, there is no runout for your knive to take a side trip.

Has anyone explored the use of bamboo for linings and blocks? Got to be strong and light, but does it glue up well?
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"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

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BK · Member Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60

I was wondering if anyone has had a problem with removing the mould once the linings are inserted.

I would think that once the upper and lower linings are inserted that it would be very difficult to remove the mould, because the linings would be blocking the mould. It seems that it might be easier to just insert the lower lining, remove the mould and then insert the upper lining once the mould is removed.

I have not tried this yet, but it seems like I might run into a problem. I thought I might ask if others have experienced a problem with this before I try inserting the linings.

Thanks,
BK

Chet Bishop · Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2011 5:26 pm Post subject:

Depens what sort of mold you are using. The one-piece molds are difficult, as you say, but it can be done. Henry Strobel explains the process.

Nothing wrong with choosing which plate you intend to install first, then removing the mold after installing that plate, and installing the remaining linings after removing the mold.

My "Italian" style molds are now two-piece molds with a 3/4" gap up the middle, so that each half can retreat from the rib garland at least 1/4" or so (you have to leave a gap beside the end blocks too, or this won't work).

My French-style (still inside, but flush to one face) molds behave exactly as you have described. I line the one side, then install the plate on that side, then pop the glued blocks loose from the mold, and use a light tack-hammer, or the like, to gently tap each of the blocks, and slide the garland off the mold.

I hope this helps.
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BK · Member Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60

Yes, that's very helpful.

Thought I might be missing something, but it sounds like it's a bit of a touch-and-go process for everyone. Not just me. That's good to know. Smile

I'll take a peak at Strobel tomorrow, too.

Thanks Chet!

Chet Bishop · Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 1:09 am Post subject:

Don't force anything.

Twice I have broken ribs because I thought just a little more pressure would get the mold out...
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