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Glue Question
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Kelvin
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Joined: 28 Jan 2011
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 4:20 pm    Post subject: Glue Question Reply with quote

Hi. I have a quick question. I recently purchased a Robert Scoville electric violin at a decent price that is showing evidence of dried out glue on some of the construction and inlaying. An inlayed piece where the endpin inserts into the body has completely let go and must be dealt with before I string it.

Is using hide glue for repairs such as this a must, or can I use anaphylactic wood glues (I build rc models as a hobby) without causing issues with the fiddle down the road?

Also, are there any special considerations for my string choice for this type of instrument? We use Dominants or Tonicas on our accoustic instruments.
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Benedict White
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Joined: 27 Jan 2011
Posts: 113

PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am no expert, but understanding is that hide glue is used for a couple of reasons, one is strength and the other is reversibility. You get the former with model aircraft glue but not the latter.

Hide glue is not expensive either, will come in handy if something slips on an acoustic (like the fingerboard which you definitely want to be able to remove). You can use premade stuff (though several here seem to prefer the made up stuff) or get a glue pot and glue.

As for strings, I am not sure what works well with electrics. What does the violin come with as standard?
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Janito
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Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 114
Location: USA

PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Glue Question Reply with quote

Kelvin wrote:
Hi. I have a quick question. I recently purchased a
or can I use anaphylactic wood glues (I build rc models as a hobby).


No, unless you are thinking of a peanut-based glue.

You mean 'aliphatic'.
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Kelvin
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Joined: 28 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No idea. The strings on it had blue threading, top and bottom, if that means anything, but they were totally rotted out. The G snapped immediately when I tried to tension it, so the first thing I did was strip them off. Is hide glue available locally or will I need to go to a luthier, such as the host of this forum?

If I lived in the town I was in twelve years ago I would have just walked across the street to my neighbour. He made violins in a basement shop therefore he had frequently had a glue pot going most day.
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Kelvin
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Joined: 28 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Glue Question Reply with quote

Janito wrote:
Kelvin wrote:
Hi. I have a quick question. I recently purchased a
or can I use anaphylactic wood glues (I build rc models as a hobby).


No, unless you are thinking of a peanut-based glue.

You mean 'aliphatic'.


I do as a matter of fact. lol, thanks for catching that - hope you don't have alergies.
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Benedict White
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Joined: 27 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can get it from ebay and the like. I have used Titebond liquid hide glue myself at the moment, though others don't think much of it. You can also get various sorts via the internet.
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Kelvin
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Joined: 28 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is Titebond liquid hide glue available at hardware stores?

I take it the reason aliphatic glues aren't desireable is the bond can't be easily reversed. Something I'm not concerned to much with airplanes.
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Benedict White
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it is the lack of reversibility. Of course if you are going to repair a few you can get dry glue and glue pot etc from Lemuel (who host this forum). If only doing a few ... You may find Titebond in an local shop as it is also used for furniture.
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 691
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:13 pm    Post subject: Glue question Reply with quote

I'd love to have a nice glue pot. Its on my wish list.

For first project -- I used a small desk top coffee cup warmer, and heated up a small jar (like baby food, or the little marinated artichoke jars) right on the plate. Took time to get hot, could scorch the glue in the bottom if not monitored, and if left too long it would overheat the glue--but it worked for my first few small projects.

There are many substitutions for the more expensive tools, but they will never be quite the same. If you decide you really want to get into this work, then you might want to spend some $$ and get tools that really take you that next level of workmanship.
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ollieken
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Joined: 26 Mar 2007
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Location: New Brunswick Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:56 pm    Post subject: String I D Reply with quote

This site may help you with string I D

http://www.simplyviolin.com/page16/page16.php?categories=Violin%20String%20Identifier ken
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Benedict White
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Joined: 27 Jan 2011
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have some temperature sensing chips, I was thinking of using them to make an electronically controlled glue pot.
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bata
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Joined: 12 Jan 2011
Posts: 30
Location: Ontario

PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:09 am    Post subject: Re: Glue Question Reply with quote

Kelvin wrote:

Is using hide glue for repairs such as this a must, or can I use anaphylactic wood glues (I build rc models as a hobby) without causing issues with the fiddle down the road?

Hi Kelvin,
Please, please do not use anything other than hide glue (or animal, fish glue) for the repair of separated joints on your instrument. Any other type of glue is a real pain in the posterior. I repair and restore instruments and I can tell you that I swear when I come across a joint made with anything but hide glue. The other glues are so difficult to work with, especially to remove from open joints or cracks. At the top of this index page is an article, "Sticky: Preparation of Hide Glue" telling you all you will need to know about hide glue. Glue / water baths can be made very inexpensively. Hot plate from XS Cargo - $9.95 and a couple of small pots or heat proof jars and a meat thermometer - $3.95. The water bath is esential so that you do not burn the glue, it should not be heated above 140deg F. I would stay away from cold hide glue for joints. It has chemicals added to prolong tack time . It has also been known to fail at relatvely low temperatures and also becomes elastic, which is not good for an instrument joint. There are many other reasons but Im sure you will read about those.
Have fun and experiment with the hide glue.
Tony
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famuswood
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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Posts: 75
Location: Smyrna, TN

PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The use of glues other than hide, generally is ill advised from what I've read. Once you get familiar with the process of using hide glue it really is not a hassle. Still it was quite intimidating for me at the beginning.

I went a long time without purchasing the standard glue pot you see advertised on the internet 110 volt fixed thermostatically controlled unit that costs around $120.00. Now that I have one, I'm sorry I waited. It is much easier than fiddling with a variable thermostat, especially if your trying to get a specific temperature of your glue. I'm generally in the 140 - 155 degree range and do not experience any problems. I'm more relaxed about it now. The main thing is the consistency of the glue. I've heard it described different ways but when it drips off my brush in a long thin stream, that is generally when I feel it is ready. changes in consistency really depend on what part of the violin you are working on to thicken or thin the glue from that median point.

One more thing. I fill my glue pot with clean water and suspend a mini solo cup (1-2 oz) with a small metal spring clip on the provided wire. You can find the cups in the grocery store. I take 20 grams of dry hide glue and the same or a little more of clean water and let it sit for an hour (some people say longer) until the water is completely absorbed. Then I heat the cup in the glue pot water until it completely dissolves. I stick it in the refrigerator until it is cool and then cut the cup away and slice the mold of glue into whatever sizes I think I will need. At that point it is ready to reheat and use - adding clean water as necessary. The portions I don't use right away, I stick in the freezer. If you put it in the refrigerator it won't last as long and will develop bacteria.

This is just the way I have learned to do it. There are much more experienced craft persons than I out there, but I wanted to try to give some detail about the process - the type of detail I was looking for when I first started. Hope that helps.
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
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Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2011 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would try to figure out what the original work was done with, and use that glue for the repair. Sometimes fixing something with a different glue than is already in the joint doesn't work out so well. Perhaps you can find out from the maker.
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antonio
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Joined: 21 Sep 2008
Posts: 27
Location: Croatia

PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greetings!
What would you say, if I put more water, will the glue (for example when gluing ribs) need more time to dry? Or will it just be weaker?
Because my glue gives me extremely small amount of time; how can I prolong that time?
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