Violin Forum/Message Board

Zaiphon · Junior Member Joined: 19 Sep 2009 Posts: 9

Well my parents are about to donate to me my grand father's violin that was defiled by my uncle. He grind the frontal varnish off as you can see in the picture. I personally don't care about it's value, what i care about is it's sound. I am a beginner violinist, I use an electric violin that sounds as metallic as a violin can sound. But this violin does sound loads better from what I heard. So I would like your input on how I should go to fix it up so it doesn't lose too much of it's quality sound.

I would love to paint it red, I saw a violin in the store once with a red finish and it just mesmerized me.
http://violins.on.ca/varnish.html <- red one

Here is the violin:
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/6435/violonalex004.jpg
Notice the weird pegs O.o

The brand is somewhat unknown, it will be hard to make off what's written inside my mom told me. It's about 100-200 years old.

Any thoughts, tips, ideas is warmly welcomed Smile

John Cadd · Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:17 pm Post subject:

Zaiphon You are on the right forum for some varnish advice.The tailpiece needs adjusting as the end ought to be right near the -----------end.If this is attached with nylon it can be screwed up closer.That means you have to be very gentle when you let the strings down or the sound post may fall over. The tuners are a novelty.I would keep them as they are. Wonder what instrument they were made for. Mandolin? Don`t use spirit varnish as it is much harder to work with.It looks like a nice working violin.

FiddleDoug · Member Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY

Too bad the instrument was stripped. That being the case, I guess that you could paint it any color that you want (wouldn't be my choice). It's a bit hard to tell from the photo, but the strings look way too close to the fingerboard. The E string should be about 3.5 mm from the end of the FB, and the G string should be about 5.5 mm. I would suggest that you take it to a luthier to see that the set up is OK. Too much involved in a set up to go into in a short post, but you need to check FB radius, string clearance at both ends of the FB, FB scoop, bridge fit, tailpiece length, soundpost lication, and a few other things. Also, the chinrest is usually placed on the other side.
_________________
Doug Wall

www.wallindependent.com

John Cadd · Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:47 pm Post subject:

And the bottom bow should fit the other way round or the tip will get damaged.Ask around for a luthier first.Even if you just get the first layer on the belly sorted.See if he mutters something about an arm and a leg.

John Cadd · Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:36 pm Post subject:

Shall I provoke some experts and tell you to slap on a quick layer of polyurethane? They are lurking here and you are being sadly neglected.Shame!

Mat Roop · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 12:00 am Post subject:

John Cadd · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:37 am Post subject:

Well said Matt . You spotted my bit of mischief. I was "inspired " to write my post as I had just seen a "helpful" site that showed you how to repair an old antique violin.(exact wording ). First stage ( I`m not making this up ) recommends to rub all the varnish off with sandpaper . Second stage ---- give it a few coats of polyurethane varnish.---To make it all shiny and lovely.Well that was the tone of it. The photo of the teenage girl handing out the advice had the word Novice below the picture. One for the conoisseur there methinks.

John Cadd · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:44 am Post subject:

Here`s the exact reference E How Article by Sincerity Anna (Bless).
How to repair an old antique violin

John Cadd · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:11 am Post subject:

In case you need to find this article urgently here`s the exact title. How to repair a damaged old antique violin. She recommends that handheld sandpaper to remove ALL the varnish is the best way.Then use some filler to block up any holes or nicks. Of course the polyurethane two coat will take some time .2 hours to wait for the first coat and then after 24 hours the second coat will be dry enough for you to play. Here`s the GOOD NEWS.
Difficulty Rating is------- Moderate ------ Hooray!
For the more discerning artists it tells you how to
BUY A STRADIVARIUS VIOLIN.
Anna recommends an auction is the best place and that you should keep an eye out for the" next auction on the block" Sound advice!
If you don`t know I`m joking then as Groucho Marx once said
" Leave this house and never darken my towels again".

John Cadd · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 9:18 am Post subject:

I had to do some editing to make sure you all had a look at this stuff.I cracked up when I saw it.Absolutely Priceless ---And WRONG
A bowl of wrong.

Zaiphon · Junior Member Joined: 19 Sep 2009 Posts: 9

It's suppose to be the worst violin in history lol

skylark brand...

fingerboard has wrong angle making it so that the string are wayyyy too low on the fingerboard.. it doesnt sound too bad though... i tried to lift the bridge ... now i gotta remove the metal pegs since i broke one...

this is like major surgery for a violin worth 15$ lol

mr_violin · Member Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Posts: 52 Location: Chicago

If you are going to put in regular wood pegs, you will need tools that will cost more than the violin is worth.

If you just think it is fun to work on violins ( like me!) Then you need to get a peg hole reamer and a peg shaper.