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kel Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Asia
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 3:07 am Post subject: Strad model? |
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after top pieces are joined, ready for carving
got a strad violin template from a supplier , before i sketch the outline on wood, i compare with the strad model on Wake's book, OH they are different
then i compare with the "Strad" violin i am playing everyday, Oh again! They are different. I've got 3 Strad violin outlines?
What's wrong? There are many Strad models?
Should i better follow Wake's book for consistency? _________________ Newbie Maker Kelvin |
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Andres Sender Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 275 Location: N. CA
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 5:29 am Post subject: |
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| Stradivari produced many different outlines during his career. The safest way to be sure of getting a real outline is to use a Strad magazine poster. Chances are your violin doesn't have the same outline as a real Strad. I don't know whether the template or the Wake drawing is close to anything. |
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kel Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Asia
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 6:28 am Post subject: |
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i think i have no choice but to follow Wake's book as his books has all the relevant measurements which i think is crucial to me as a newbie maker _________________ Newbie Maker Kelvin |
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Chris Knowlton Member
Joined: 25 Nov 2007 Posts: 53 Location: Pinehurst, North Carolina
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:41 am Post subject: |
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Hi kel,
I have books by Wake, Brown, and Strobel. They are good books for their time but I highly recommend "The Art of Violin Making" by Chris Johnson and Roy Courtnall. It does not have a pattern but it contains a lot more building detail than the other books combined. That and the help from the people on the forums will get you through this most difficult of projects. It's not too late in your project to get this information.
I wish you the best and hope you enjoy the journey as much as I am.
Chris _________________ I make sawdust mostly |
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kel Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Asia
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 11:32 am Post subject: |
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Thank Chris, wouldn't be late to get more important reference books.
Making a violin lasts at least 2 months (should be 3 or more) to me especially this is my 1st violin.
To me, every difficulty is in fact a chance for satisfaction; i wouldn't be deterred by that. Rather i enjoy it all the time when difficulty arises _________________ Newbie Maker Kelvin |
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Tim McTigue Member
Joined: 31 Mar 2007 Posts: 30 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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| kel wrote: | | Making a violin lasts at least 2 months (should be 3 or more) to me especially this is my 1st violin. |
I started almost 2 years ago, and I haven't finished my first one yet, although to be fair, there were periods of months when I wasn't working on it at all. Still, I'd estimate if I had been working on it continuously, I would have taken at least 6 months to complete it. Don't let that discourage you, you could possibly work faster, or more hours in a week. Whatever you do, don't set yourself any deadlines or timetables, because it will almost certainly take longer than you think it will... _________________ Tim
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Chris Knowlton Member
Joined: 25 Nov 2007 Posts: 53 Location: Pinehurst, North Carolina
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2008 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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Hi kel,
I'm like Tim, I have been working on my first for 2-1/2 years including all of the time taken to find my way around, get the books, tools, etc, and read, read, read..
It's good that you enjoy challenges you will do well.
Chris _________________ I make sawdust mostly |
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Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2008 2:31 pm Post subject: Strad model |
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For your first violin, I'd stick with the design and works with your reference book. Any one of these patterns that have been referenced, will build a decent violin. Pick one, stick with it, it'll be just fine. Some advise, if while building you start to stray off the measurements, they tend to accumulate, so stop what you're doing and go back and get it right. Take your time.
Also, when you are building over a long period, which we novices do, the different parts change dimensions over time due to temperature and humidity. My best build came when I decided to hold off on purfling front and back until I had the entire body assembled, and could trim the overhang with confidence. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
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kel Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Asia
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Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:22 am Post subject: |
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yea Dave, I've chosen originally to follow Wake's book model. BUT...........I got stuck now while trying to saw the top piece _________________ Newbie Maker Kelvin |
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kel Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Asia
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Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 5:23 am Post subject: |
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I am confused absolutely by Wake's book. Talked to my friend.
He spent some times measuring here and there on Wake's book drawing sheets. Here is what he found :
Wake's book has 6 sheets of full scale size Strad model
2 sheets for mold construction
1 sheet for scroll carving
1 sheet for back thickness
1 sheet for top & back arching
1 sheet for top thickness
The last 2 sheets are measured
The sheet named "Strad model violin. Violin layout of top thicknesses in mm",
top piece of violin body length measured is 349mm (end to end)
Another one called "Strad model violin. Top and Back arching",
top piece of violin body length measured is 359mm (end to end)
Hold these 2 sheets to light, obviously the outlines CANNOT coincide.
Presumably the 2 sheets have a centre line. With a ruler on it, it is slightly curved !!
If a newbie trying to follow exactly these drawing sheets to cut, disaster definitely will come
Could someone kindly explain what happens?
Well, I resort to make one by myself. All other templates/books now serve only as casual reference. _________________ Newbie Maker Kelvin |
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Tim McTigue Member
Joined: 31 Mar 2007 Posts: 30 Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:23 am Post subject: |
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Those two drawings are likely intended for reference only, not to serve as templates to be used directly. They would be for the purpose of showing where the various differences are, for example, with the graduations (thicknesses). I could be wrong, but that's what comes to mind when reading your post. Strobel has a sheet in his book with a full-size drawing of the various components, intended for use as templates, but even there, he states that care should be taken when making reference copies, as the photocopy process may not be accurate. _________________ Tim
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kel Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2008 Posts: 73 Location: Asia
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Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 10:43 am Post subject: |
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My view rather is : I pay for the book and so I demand accuracy.
Anyway, my top piece has been carved for over 10 hours in 2 days, roughly of 6mm to 8 mm thick now, still needs a lot of work to adjust to final thickness and height, got myself sored shoulder and back ! _________________ Newbie Maker Kelvin |
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