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Franciscus
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Joined: 11 Jan 2014
Posts: 43
Location: Tuzla, Bosnia
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 Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:11 am Post subject: |
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| kjb wrote: | | if I am reading you right about the vertical plane of the bridge, some people do not leave it exactly flat, but leave a chest area proud. I have no idea whether one way or the other makes a difference. |
Right, but most of people do what one can find, for example, in the link you posted: "The feet must be adjusted in such a way that the reverse side of the bridge (the part that shows to the tailpiece) stands at a right angle to mathematical base area. Being that the front of the bridge is arched, it appears is if the bridge is slightly inclined toward the tailpiece."
Edit: I usually follow the procedure described by M. Darnton here: http://www.darntonviolins.com/violinmagazine/book/setup.pdf. |
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Scott S
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Joined: 27 Jan 2014
Posts: 24
Location: Michigan, Tri State area
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:33 am Post subject: |
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| Franciscus wrote: | | During all this surgery described before, what happened with the soundpost? Is there soundpost at all? Beside, the south side of the bridge should not be convexed - It should be flat and perpendicular to the top. |
The soungpost is shown in the OPs original photos. The chest is on the north side of the bridge, I think what you are seeing is the south side cleaned up some. Lately, I've seen it both ways, brand switcheroo too.
Scott
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Franciscus
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Location: Tuzla, Bosnia
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:50 am Post subject: |
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| Scott S wrote: | | Franciscus wrote: | | During all this surgery described before, what happened with the soundpost? Is there soundpost at all? Beside, the south side of the bridge should not be convexed - It should be flat and perpendicular to the top. |
The soungpost is shown in the OPs original photos. The chest is on the north side of the bridge, I think what you are seeing is the south side cleaned up some. Lately, I've seen it both ways, brand switcheroo too.
Scott |
Yep, I see the soundpost at the third picture. If it is still there after all bridge on-off, strings on-off etc manipulation, then it was fitted too tight. |
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Scott S
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Location: Michigan, Tri State area
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:52 am Post subject: |
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When removing a bridge or releasing string tension, a soundpost MAY fall. This is not an inevitable production. I don't think it's ever happened to me.
Scott
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Scott S
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Location: Michigan, Tri State area
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:58 am Post subject: |
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[/quote]
Yep, I see the soundpost at the third picture. If it is still there after all bridge on-off, strings on-off etc manipulation, then it was fitted too tight.[/quote]
Sorry, I can't agree with that. It could be too tight, but I can't agree that it is destined to fall, even at adequate tension.
Scott
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Franciscus
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Posts: 43
Location: Tuzla, Bosnia
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:59 am Post subject: |
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| Scott S wrote: | I don't think it's ever happened to me.
Scott |
I am sure, but you know that the soundpost is inside the body and you deal in accordance with that. |
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Scott S
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Location: Michigan, Tri State area
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:13 am Post subject: |
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| Franciscus wrote: | | Scott S wrote: | I don't think it's ever happened to me.
Scott |
I am sure, but you know that the soundpost is inside the body and you deal in accordance with that. |
Yes, spudchucker should check his soundpost and release string tension IF the post has fallen.
Scott
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Spudchucker
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Joined: 06 Feb 2014
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:12 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting and very informative, thanks for the link
RE: soundpost- The sound post is in position almost under the right side of the bridge, a couple of millimeters south of the f hole notch, perhaps somewhere between the E and A string (closer to E) as a rough eyeball estimate. What would be a symptom of the soundpost being in too tightly if it is? (other than not falling..) Would it create any noticeable resonance problems that I could mention as feedback?
RE: bridge- The chest side faces the tuning pegs, and as Scott pointed-out, I sanded the top half of both sides lightly to clean it up a bit.
-edit- Some soundpost speculation- Since the fingerboard's angle has become a bit more shallow over time, does that mean the top could potentially be putting more pressure on the soundpost? (the fingerboard angle shallowing out would imply that any warping is a downward-pressing motion if related to the soundboard.) On that note, the left side of the right f hole does protrude slightly above the surface plane of the rest of the soundboard, likely caused by the soundpost. I guess the real question would be whether the wood warped loosely around the soundpost over time or or if the soundpost is current pushing it outward
Last edited by Spudchucker on Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:26 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Franciscus
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Location: Tuzla, Bosnia
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Spudchucker wrote: | | What would be a symptom of the soundpost being in too tightly if it is? (other than not falling..) Would it create any noticeable resonance problems that I could mention as feedback? |
Too tight (= too long) soundpost could create a crack, famous soundpost crack. |
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Spudchucker
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Franciscus wrote: | | Spudchucker wrote: | | What would be a symptom of the soundpost being in too tightly if it is? (other than not falling..) Would it create any noticeable resonance problems that I could mention as feedback? |
Too tight (= too long) soundpost could create a crack, famous soundpost crack. |
No cracks here but you got my attention 
See my last edit for a bit more info
I know I need to get this looked at by a luthier sooner than not, but it's mostly about time and money at the moment (I'm a broke guy who won the pawn shop violin lottery, wasn't quite prepared to spend much going into this) I should have my car running again this week though so I'm trying |
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Scott S
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Location: Michigan, Tri State area
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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I would not suggest any beginner adjust, remove, insert or move a soundpost. This soundpost is in the right general area, If there are no cracks or creases in the tables in the area of the soundpost, leave it be. IMHO
Scott
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Franciscus
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Posts: 43
Location: Tuzla, Bosnia
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Too tight fit soundpost pressure could have made the plate assymmetric, as well as treble f-hole distorted. You could see if it happens. |
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Spudchucker
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Scott S wrote: | I would not suggest any beginner adjust, remove, insert or move a soundpost. This soundpost is in the right general area, If there are no cracks or creases in the tables in the area of the soundpost, leave it be. IMHO
Scott |
Yep, this is one area that I am happy to leave to the experts. There are no cracks, and I'm actually somewhat comforted to have those two burl-like knots in line with the grain over the soundpost, because a good burl is about as impervious to cracking as wood can naturally get (that's why we big burls to make salad bowls  )
As it is, I've noted the concern with the soundpost, and whenever I have a chance to have it professionally looked at, it will be one of the questions on my list. |
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Spudchucker
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Franciscus wrote: | | Too tight fit soundpost pressure could have made the plate assymmetric, as well as treble f-hole distorted. You could see if it happens. |
Nothing seems overly-asymmetrical (any more so than a very old instrument should be, anyway) but there is this slight protrusion by the left edge of the treble f hole, which is give or take a millimeter higher than the other side of the hole
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Franciscus
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Joined: 11 Jan 2014
Posts: 43
Location: Tuzla, Bosnia
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| Posted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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| A sunken upper treble f-hole wing may indicate a loose soundpost, one that protrudes may indicate a too tight soundpost. The conclusion is to you. I'd say - too tight soundpost (slightly) - don't indicate a disastrous situation, but still... Take this fiddle to the luthier, just ask him for estimation of repair/setup cost (this is free, mostly) and you will know exactly what needs to be done (just my two cents) |
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