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SooT Member
Joined: 18 May 2009 Posts: 74 Location: Devon, UK
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:11 pm Post subject: Fingerboad on an old Kay cello |
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| Had to replane the fingerboard, which is not ebony, don't think it is rosewood either. What, if anything, would one put on the fingerboard to finish it? |
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 11:36 pm Post subject: |
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If it were me and the existing fingerboard is important to keep, burnish the finished surface with a good 1" or 3/4" hardwood dowel.... and then a coat of Tung oil.
Cheers, Mat |
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SooT Member
Joined: 18 May 2009 Posts: 74 Location: Devon, UK
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:03 am Post subject: |
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| We don't have any Tung Oil, would linseed oil suffice? |
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 10:47 am Post subject: |
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sooT ... Never used linseed on instruments, but I guess it would work. Boiled linseed oil is thicker but dries quicker (a few days) Raw linseed oil is thinner, but takes longer to dry ...maybe a week or more.
test it first on a sample of something to be sure you get the feel you like... the boiled linseed seems to have a heavy greasy feel, raw less so.
Key is to apply it and wipe it off completely... you don't want a layer of it on the wood like a paint.
You might even try rubbing in a coat of oil based violin varnish, immediately wiping it off completely and letting it dry overnight.
Note that my experience is with tung oil only on fingerboards... so the rest of my comments are based on speculation!
\Good luck! |
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SooT Member
Joined: 18 May 2009 Posts: 74 Location: Devon, UK
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 11:33 am Post subject: |
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I think you can use Linseed oil on instruments. Boyd Poulsen taught the use of linseed oil on the back of the neck that isn't varnished.
Just contacted a fellow So Cal workshop participant and found out that we can use 600 grit sandpaper with linseed oil on the redressed fingerboard, then immediately wipe off the oil. Might help someone else.
If there are any other suggestions we'd love to learn them. |
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whatwasithinking Member
Joined: 26 Jan 2013 Posts: 230 Location: Washington State
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L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
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Posted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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| I never put finish on fingerboards, but if I did it would be Minwax Wood Hardener. If you must, the linseed oil should be pretty harmless. |
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 12:42 am Post subject: |
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I've used dye before, and it was black leather dye... from a shoe repair shop. The bottle looks suspiciously the same as the one in the stew mac link.
Cheers, Mat |
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whatwasithinking Member
Joined: 26 Jan 2013 Posts: 230 Location: Washington State
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Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 1:01 am Post subject: |
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| I think it is. Have also seen powder you mix with alcohol and shellac, IIRC. |
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SooT Member
Joined: 18 May 2009 Posts: 74 Location: Devon, UK
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Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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| whatwasithinking wrote: | Umm, did you not care whether it was black?
Bob |
Didn't care that the fingerboard wasn't black. The Linseed oil darkened the wood and it looks pretty nice after the sandpaper/oil, and a quick rub off.
Thanks for the help everyone. Still learning the tricks for cheapy instruments here. |
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whatwasithinking Member
Joined: 26 Jan 2013 Posts: 230 Location: Washington State
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Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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| SooT wrote: | | whatwasithinking wrote: | Umm, did you not care whether it was black?
Bob |
Didn't care that the fingerboard wasn't black. |
Please forgive me for assuming.
I've been advised to use walnut oil, and it seems to work well. |
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