Violin Forum/Message Board

ctviolin · Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:23 pm Post subject:

I know that I often just Blab - and, I admit that often it is simply because people ask questions about things that I have thouht about on and off for many years - and have come to specific conclusions about.

For example;

To be completely honest about a subject like this - I'm going to go out on a limb a bit, and say that any light weight wood with a straight split and close grain - with a known quality of strength, and no obvious problems that can be detected, will work about as well as any other like-minded wood.

For any violin, made any time or place. (for blocks and linings, I mean)

This type of thing can easily be accomplished by copying classical makers apparent choices in wood - which is a safe bet and is essentially what I do, although, probably, all of the past classical violin makers never had an opportunity to use Sitka Spruce.
Even so, as a maker today, it's strength and availability and usually very straight split, makes it a great choice in my opinion.

Very often when people on the internet bring up subjects like this (corner block and lining wood) they are more interested in what woods will work well, and often - what wood did the makers of old use, and which woods may have an effect on the tone of the instrument...

I usually wonder that no one brings up the facet of split - or quartering - which I like to be absolutely straight through the wood, or, the direction of the grain (lines) facing the maker on the various blocks and even on the linings...

In fact, I will not use wood for either the linings or the blocks, that doesn't have absolutely straight quartering.

Off-split or off-quarter, makes a simple job much more work.

I'm more interested in the strength, split and durability of the chosen wood, than the idea that it may have an effect on (classical) tone. As, I do not believe that it does, nor do I believe it could be detected either way in any case, as long as the required properties are there. I believe that longevity is key to these particulars.

One example of my thinking is - I will not use Cedar, because in use, I have found that it splits much more easily than the Spruce that I do use (just for an example of what I'm getting at)

I do have a question that I always wonder about when making my own blocks though;

...and that is, how other people run the grain (or annular rings) on the end and corner blocks, and why ?
In which direction - and, does it matter?
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kubasa · Member Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212

"One example of my thinking is - I will not use Cedar, because in use, I have found that it splits much more easily than the Spruce that I do use (just for an example of what I'm getting at) "

Craig, I guess that's what I was getting at. It's a really nice chunk of wood that I have and I've used cedar for other woodworking projects but I hate to take chances when it comes to the violin. Course, that's the story of my life. I don't take chances...

ctviolin · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 6:22 am Post subject:

MANFIO · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 7:23 am Post subject:

If Brazilian cedar is with run out it will breake very easily indeed.
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kubasa · Member Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212

Craig - I guess I answered my own question. Yes, I've worked with some that is easy to split/break and almost chippy. I've only worked with western cedar (red cedar?). My concern is around the neck and saddle blocks. I'm not sure why I have this fascination with cedar but logical side of me tells me just to stay away from it. Right brain, left brain sort of thing I suppose.

ctviolin · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:30 am Post subject:

okawbow · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 11:45 am Post subject:

I'm sure lots of different wood will work for blocks and linings. However, my local black willow,(salix negra), works better than spruce in my opinion. I don't have a problem with the willow trying to split, like the spruce. The willow also bends easier when used for linings. Willow is a little harder to shape than spruce, but seems a lot tougher.

ctviolin · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:13 pm Post subject:

ctviolin · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 12:51 pm Post subject:

Sorry double post.
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L P Reedy · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 7:30 pm Post subject:

CT:
"I do have a question that I always wonder about when making my own blocks though;

...and that is, how other people run the grain (or annular rings) on the end and corner blocks, and why ?
In which direction - and, does it matter?"

I run the grain parallel to the center line (I use only willow at present) on end blocks because it shrinks and expands less with humidity changes that way than the other. Does it matter? I don't know, but I figure it's safer. That's usually how the books seem to recommend but without explanation.

I have no opinion on corner blocks but they often have grain perpendicular to the center line because of the way I rough them out. I really don't think that matters.

Michael Darnton · Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:24 pm Post subject:

I try to do what you say, but I don't get carried away with it. The real problem is the blocks vs the ribs, and unless you want to turn the blocks 90 degrees, try not to think about that too hard.
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