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bridge height and angle
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FiddleDoug wrote:
The critical measurement for set up of existing instruments is the string height above the FB, NOT the string angle.

There's a statement I really, really disagree with! Unless you don't care much how they sound, and are only into saving money . . .

Having a specific angle is useful as having a position where most violins work the best, and the farther you get the worse things get, but it's only a start. You can get a lot more bang for the buck changing string angle than you will from any post movement, so knowing what to do and what the results will be are essential for anyone doing violin setups. Completely ignoring it . . . I can't even conceive of that.
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FiddleDoug
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 10:55 am    Post subject: Michael, Sorry to have ruffled your feathers. Reply with quote

Michael, Sorry to have ruffled your feathers, but I think that I'm dealing with a whole different clientele than you are. Most of my clients are local fiddlers and students, who choke if they look at a $400 estimate. I don't disagree that the string angle is very important for optimal performance, but my reality is that most of my clients won't consider neck resets or other costly repairs for "just a set-up". If I do have to do a neck "re-glue" or reset for other reasons, I'm very fussy about the correct neck angle.
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so you mean not important to the customers, rather than not important to the violin. :-)

This particular thing is something I get a lot of business out of, fixing things that other shops have already "fixed". We'd have a lot more sales if my partner didn't have the habit of telling people looking for new violins that we can make their current violin work a lot better than it does, and then doing it, consistently.

In reading this thread, it reminded me of something I do with every violin: before I hear it or play it, I look at everything first, and try to figure out in my mind what it's going to sound like, what is going to be bad, what I could do to counter what I think I'm going to hear, etc. I do this based on arching and current set up, and the particular tonal habits of the violins from certain schools. I try to "know" in advance everything I can, then I'll ask the player what he's having trouble with, and listen to him play, and play the instrument myself, and grade myself on how good my predictions were.

I treat it as a learning game, to try to learn about the effects of things. Doing this every time, over the course of years, has helped me develop my understanding of what various aspects of violin construction and setup do, including based on what others have done, so that I'm more efficient and effective in things like adjustments without necessarily having had to do all the experiments myself. One interesting effect of this is that I've learned some unlikely and counter-intuitive adjustments by observing strange things that previous people whom I respect have done that have had effects I wouldn't have anticipated.
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ctviolin
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael Darnton wrote:

There's a statement I really, really disagree with! Unless you don't care much how they sound, and are only into saving money . . .

Having a specific angle is useful as having a position where most violins work the best, and the farther you get the worse things get, but it's only a start. You can get a lot more bang for the buck changing string angle than you will from any post movement, so knowing what to do and what the results will be are essential for anyone doing violin setups. Completely ignoring it . . . I can't even conceive of that.


Hmmm, interesting.

Well, I can see the different points of view (and practice) between someone who MAKES violins from scratch - and who repairs violins to their ultimate immediate possible top capability...

and someone else, who might have to repair whatever comes in the door, to its best playing condition, WITHOUT going through any major bebuild type repairs - like many (or, perhaps even MOST) all string selling generic music stores might offer.

And perhaps there exists an area where the acceptable selling price range of used instruments, demands either one, or the other type of repair.

Outside of the theoretical "best" repair - there is the "typical" or even the "just make it play again, please" type generic repair - or, the repair that a violin that cost $75.00 - $100.00 new - but is now far from it, might demand.
(The students parents, not understanding why a $75.00 violin would EVER need work - period...)

Yeah, it's not that difficult to see that both types of repairs might be considered within reason, in certain categories.

(I've been (and still occasionally am) in both...)

What a world - what a world.
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FiddleDoug
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael,
You have spoken words of wisdom. I have a fraction of the experience, and expertise that you have. My goal is is to work with my clients, and make their instrument as good as it can be, without "breaking the bank". A lot of times, the instruments end up being Grandfather's old German fiddle, that they want to make playable for the Grand Daughter. Not a lot of financial wiggle room there. I can usually make major improvements to the way the fiddle plays, and sounds, without doing major surgery. Perhaps not optimal, but it's what I have to work with.
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ctviolin
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops, I see this was covered while I was composing my reply.
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violinarius
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PostPosted: Sat May 04, 2013 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael Darnton wrote:
violinarius wrote:
Most sources give 27 mm for neck projection, and the reason this is so is because it is connected to a whole bunch of other numbers that if followed give you a 158 degree string angle over the bridge.

The main problem being that if you follow those numbers for a modern violin, or a violin that doesn't have a 15mm top arch, you usually end up with something around 157 or even 156. The standards work for old ones, which often have as much as a 2mm slump along the length of the body (and I think they were probably devised by restorers working in shops who were trying to maximize old violins, not thinking about setting up new ones).

If you believe string angle is important, you need to work actively to get what you want, not just trust that it will show up at the end. One can fudge out 158 by changing the neck insert, projection height, and saddle height, all a little bit, to approach 158. Additionally, some violins like a higher or lower angle, depending on their arch and thickness (only a consideration for something out of the norm). I have a tool that measures the projected string angle without strings so that I can set the neck according to the violin, and know for sure what's going to happen when it does eventually have strings on it.

Big picture; I'll give a link rather than post it: http://darntonviolins.com/images2/neck-angle.jpg
The predicted neck angle is almost readable on the white space on the left of the pivot. Finally I re-made this tool in metal, after it got too ratty. Smile


Yes the numbers are all connected together, and following them 'blindly' only works if you follow everything else 'blindly' and they are all correctly connected to each other.

In modern making, I have run into instruments that 'settled-in' quite a bit, while others did not. My guess is that it was different wood properties, such as age, and final destinations, humidity, that played a large role in this sinking. So it is a cat and mouse game at times.

I always do a full scale drawing of any new models I design, to see how the 'string angle' and other measures all turn-out to see how they end-up relating to each other.

Do you think 'string angle' is more connected to arching shape, or to graduation strength?

I know this is one of those so-so questions, that can be argued ad infinitum, so I am more interested in your impression, than in the actual subject, itself, since you promote cycloid arching as being soo important.

Thanks for the great picture!
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DBurns
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do all violins have need the same string angle of 158 degrees?
Is that the angle that works best?
Do some instruments need different string angles?
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Andres Sender
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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Intersecting Michael's posts in this thread with the above questions, the answers are:

No.

Usually--i.e. on violins with decent arches and normal arching heights and thicknesses.

Yes.

Wink
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DBurns
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Andres Sender"]Intersecting Michael's posts in this thread with the above questions, the answers are:

No.

Usually--i.e. on violins with decent arches and normal arching heights and thicknesses.

Yes.

Wink[/quote]

Thanks.
Do you know if the string angle is also based on a players preference?
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since string angles change tone, the sensible answer would be that players would prefer different things. However, my experience is that if you hit it right, everyone likes the result. That's a general tendency with a lot of adjustment issues: if you don't get everything perfect, and players have to choose, then of course they will have preferences of what bad things they're willing to accept. If you get it perfect, they don't have too much to say about it, and no one complains about perfect.

Though players have different styles, basically good players want mostly the same thing. If you give them a wide range of tonal and volume choices that they can access easily, yet not crush, what else is there? That's why the really expensive stereo stuff doesn't have equalizer or tone controls: what can be better than right, for someone who knows what "right" is?
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