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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:08 pm Post subject: tuning bridges to a given instrument |
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I'd be interested in getting opinions on the issue of tuning a bridge to a particular instrument.
Some respected makers say they cut a bridge to a "classic" shape, trim it out per these requirements and go no further...
I've been playing around quite a bit in this area and find that quite a lot can be done to "shape" the instrument's feel and response, if not even more... and I'm talking about final tuning, not the initial trimming out part.
I'm especially surprised at how trimming a bridge in a specific area can bring (for example) a violin with a kind of wah wah bowing response to something quite a bit better, with that nice bow "tug" on the string before the note starts.
I'm also amazed at how little wood removal is necessary to bring this about.
Any opinions?
Best regards,
Ernie |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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I usually cut a pretty conservative bridge, strang 'er up, and see what I think (being conservative at the start saves me from wishing I'd cut less). If I think changes are called for, I go back and cut some more. Especially with cello bridges, I try to leave the cello strung up for a couple of days and see what shakes out, since cellos are really sensitive to bridge changes, but also react a lot to having the tension off.
So, tell me about that "wah wah" thing. I don't understand what you are talking about, but once you tell me what that means, I certainly am going to want to know how to fix it! _________________ new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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By "wha wha" I'm trying to describe an instrument that has no initial resistance to the note starting from the bow. It just sort of goes easy back and forth without that "crunch" or tug resistance. (I apologise for poor descriptive skills... I've never heard or read about this... a sort of self discovery.)
From players that I've had feedback from, they prefer a bow feel that gives some resistance to the start of a note.
Those little strips of wood (again forgive me I don't know what they're called) that point inward from the outer circles and are commonly trimmed to a point... that's where I've found there is a large ability to affect the instrument's response.
I saw some violin bridges on Violinbridges.co.uk that have a long and extending little "strip" and some are cut quite blunt, even if still to a point.
I found that cutting these little "points" shorter and shorter has the effect of bringing that "tug" I'm trying to describe into "focus" and a slight bit more cut... it goes back to "wah wah." Cut a bit more and it comes back... and out...
In other words, it seems to be a quite influential place that the instrument can be adjusted for player feel when strung up and in tune.
Am I nuts??? |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1347 Location: Chicago
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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Save me Michael!!!!
Seriously, I'd be thrilled to see what you think of this after you've given it a whirl...
E |
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Janito Member
Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 114 Location: USA
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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I am interested to know how all the other variables are controlled.
So how do you do it - take the bridge off and trim or in situ trimming? |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 8:55 am Post subject: |
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"in situ..."
Before stringing up, the bridge is trimmed out... including sharpening of the points, but not shortening of them.
When I'm satisfied with the post placement and overall balance of the sound, I take a 1/8 inch chisel, and cut ever so slightly an amount off the points, effectively shortening the tip, but still keeping the point centred in the bridge. To be clear, I do this while the instrument is strung up...the chisel can easily make the cuts I'm describing without putting anything in jeopardy... plus, I don't want to be unsure a) whether I can remember from time to time what the previous adjustments sounded like were I to take down and set up each time and b) the effect of detuning the strings and tuning up to pitch again introduces sound effects of its own, which is I'm guessing why Janito asked the question.
Try playing... if not happy repeat.
The amounts that are removed to effect the result I'm describing is amazingly tiny. As I said earlier, as you trim and test, the bow response will get better and worse as you go... you get to decide where "best" is.
To me its a big enough deal that I wouldn't regard my setup complete till I've done it.
Since I don't know how to work the photo posting for this site I've attached a URL... about 4 lines down is a bridge that has a yellow circle around the area I'm talking about.
http://www.google.ca/search?q=violin+bridge&hl=en&tbo=u&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ei=6VwOUYGELuTWyQG6goGABA&sqi=2&ved=0CCwQsAQ&biw=1304&bih=747
If you look at the variety of trim work on the better cut bridges at Violinbridges.co.uk you'll see a big variety of point lengths...
I'm certainly not holding forth as the discoverer of a new planet here... hold off with the hosanas if you must ...I just find this little bit of wood remarkably "tunable" for bow response...
E
(Here is a "short" cut example)
http://www.violinbridges.co.uk/search3.php?bridgeID=195&pos=0&instrument=all&stampText=francais&country=anywhere&search=search
(And here a "long" cut example)
http://www.violinbridges.co.uk/search3.php?bridgeID=713&pos=1&instrument=all&stampText=machold&country=anywhere&search=search
Last edited by actonern on Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:32 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:22 am Post subject: |
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| Janito wrote: | I am interested to know how all the other variables are controlled.
So how do you do it - take the bridge off and trim or in situ trimming?
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Well, I cannot answer for anyone else, but I always trim with the bridge off, and, if I put it on and don't like it, it comes back off for another bridge or more trimming. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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Lemuel Site Admin
Joined: 12 Aug 2010 Posts: 515 Location: Mt. Elgin, Ontario
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 10:58 am Post subject: |
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That's pretty interesting Ernie... I'll have to share this with the luthiers I work with.
This thread reminds me of another thread discussing whether there was a difference in sound
between Strad and Guarneri model bridges. Michael had mentioned that there would be no
difference in the sound.
http://www.violins.ca/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1264&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15
I still haven't been able to test this out. However when I discussed it with Leif, he told me that
it will make a difference on a Baroque instrument (like putting race wheels for racing cars). |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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What I'm trying to describe is nicely illustrated starting at 1:04 - 1:12 or so on the attached recording:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlmxJvxMWhQ
There's a nice "tug-pop" effect to the note's starts...
Some players have described it to me as "tension" ... a bow feel that allows cleaner and more incisive articulation... |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:08 pm Post subject: Re: tuning bridges to a given instrument |
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| actonern wrote: | I'd be interested in getting opinions on the issue of tuning a bridge to a particular instrument.
Some respected makers say they cut a bridge to a "classic" shape, trim it out per these requirements and go no further...
Any opinions?
Best regards,
Ernie |
I'll agree with this general statement.
I think specific changes in bridge trimming (such as accentuating the stings, or tangs - etc) "can" have a specific effect on a specific bridge and a specific violin in combination, but have not found such specific area tuning anywhere close to a universal tuning method for bridges and violins generally. Or, just specifically for bridges generally.
In my experience the most effective universal trimming effect (having a standard tonal effect) has to do with the general thickness of the bridge...
Given standard trimming techniques (which I do use) the bridge thickness or thinness can change the timber of the bridge (the violin) in general a bit, and I will admit to having moved from somewhat thin bridges to somewhat thick bridges through the years.
I leave thick (even original thickness) bridges on student violins because they don't require ALL of the general trimming for tonal purposes, as much as they require a bridge that won't fold in half because they're never pulled back into the correct position, but usually are pulled forward during tuning and left there - until they either start folding in half forward or fall forward - so thicker helps. On the other hand trimming everything else (feet, top, face, etc.) doesn't hurt anything.
Bridges for my own violins are also fairly thick - as "too thin" gets a poorer or weaker response generally, in my opinion.
All of the usual trimming factors still apply, though.
For me the stings (points?) are not a particular tuning point on bridges. And I will admit to varying them quite wildly over time. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn.
Last edited by ctviolin on Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:41 am; edited 1 time in total |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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I will say that - on the other hand - I have run into bridges that (trimmed well or not) just don't sound that good on a particular violin...
For no real reason I can immediately tell.
Most often, in my experience, putting a stiffer bridge on solves the problem. I have come to flexing bridges in half right where the waist is, and bridges that flex there too easily, can be weak on the violin.
This is a particular gripe of mine, and is one reason why I tend to use decent quality Aubert bridges (no, not necessarily the most expensive ones) - as the wood seems much more well chosen. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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ollieken Super Member
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 281 Location: New Brunswick Canada
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:06 pm Post subject: Interesting post on bridge cutting |
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I have read a lot on one thing or another to response of violins (fiddles ) when bowing. True you have to have a good set up & a good fiddle (Violin).
I have not seen a lot on a having a good bow & rehair job .
I think when i hear a person play in a concert & making a lot of
quick notes that we wish we could . I have to think that the person must have a very good bow that respond`s well & would not be like a bow that you can buy at Wal Mart .
I have a bow Albert Nornberg & I find a big differance from my other bow`s
Anyone have an opion on this Maybe michal Darton .. Ct .. Mat Roop
would like to hear coment`s from bowmaker`s Ken |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 9:55 pm Post subject: Re: Interesting post on bridge cutting |
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| ollieken wrote: |
I have not seen a lot on a having a good bow & rehair job .
I have to think that the person must have a very good bow that respond's well & would not be like a bow that you can buy at Wal Mart.
I have a bow Albert Nornberg & I find a big differance from my other bow`s
Anyone have an opion on this Maybe michal Darton.. Ct .. Mat Roop
would like to hear coment`s from bowmaker`s
Ken
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Hi Ken.
I'm working on taking whoever wants to go, through a rehair, step by step, here online in the bow section as soon as I can.
While I'm in this "recovery period" (which seems to be taking an unexpectedly long while) from a fairly recent stroke, things are a bit difficult - it may take a while to get me going on it...
But the supposition that I think I'm reading here, is a good and a true one - a proper re hair on a "decently made" bow can have a dramatic result on how well any violin played with such a bow responds.
I'm not a bow maker, and have only recently started re-cambering them, and am starting in on building (pernambuco) my first one presently.
But I've been re hairing now for almost twenty years - I will swear that a proper re hair, will allow a good bow to do good things, and a great bow to do great things.
So, violin making is one thing.
Bows are in another category, "by themselves" in a way.
The bow itself is like a violin, in that, how well it is made, and even how well it is haired originally or re haired, can make a huge difference in how it plays and how well it makes a violin respond.
From the my opinion department. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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Here's a link to the effect I'm describing far better than the earlier one...
It starts at about 50 seconds in... listen to Zukerman's "bite"...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Azq-Lu9S3o |
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