Violin Forum/Message Board

[John Cadd]

The Wittner tailpiece with screw seems to lurk outside the mainstream . When you buy one the instructions only show how the screw is fitted in a colour cartoon . Look for the word Multi after the word Classic .But the real way to use them is not made as clear as crystal .
The screw ,basically, is changing the length of the tail loop. You need to estimate where the tail loop should fit first . Like every other tailpiece the length should fit whatever shape your violin happens to be .The first fit involves a little fight with a stiff but flexible tail loop that always stretches after you fit it. Bending the thing over the saddle is another part of the tensioning process .
So you eventually get a wooden or metal or plastic tailpiece into position ,all the while keeping the soundpost in place . Get the bridge back vertical and then measure the afterlength .
With the Wittner + screw you need to begin with the screw in a neutral position so you can move the adjuster in either direction .The Neutral position is set by setting the end of the screw 5mm ahead of the brass nut .The small movable block that the screw runs through should be 5mm away from the permanent cross piece. The movable block is holding the tension of the two srew parts of the nylon end loop.
When you screw inwards the loop is shortened --which increases the afterlength.When unscrewed the loop gets longer and the afterlength reduces in length.
Now read the last two sentences while realising the afterlength change will only be made when you straighten the bridge vertical position .Not before that . The screw will only alter the tail loop itself .You need to do the bridge adjustment afterwards . The whole process ,once you get the approximate position correct is foolproof and any loop stretching can be compensated for.
I thought ,at first , the Wittner + screw would be a useful temporary way to find a good position ,but now I would prefer it to be a permanent fixture .
Wittner will need to make some cosmetic tests to pretend the tailpieces are made of wood . The composite material does no harm to the sound . For total accuracy the tailpieces can be used with geared tuners .The tailpieces can be with or without fine adjusters .
The description above might be too much in a pamphlet in the cardboard box . Think of it like a bottle of tablets with medical advice in several languages .
So the best way to use the Wittner + is to set the afterlength to a Note rather than a Measurement. A G string afterlength could be on a D note .Or it could work better on C# .You can test that for yourself .Or try various setting to match your own violin harmonics .
As a safety point ---also not mentioned in the instructions --you need to make sure you don`t unwind the screw too far and have the strings and bridge collapsing . Check before you fit it --that you know how many screwdriver turns will add up to 5mm . That can be 5 mm --Plus or Minus if you start in a Neutral position .
Verdict ;It`s incredibly useful as long as you understand it . I thought this would help .I hope Wittners read it too .
Generally the "gap" between tailpiece and saddle will allow for these variations . Afterlength trumps tailpiece -saddle end gap .

[John Cadd]

I have a 4/4 violin and a 4/4 Wittner + but the tailpiece is too long to get the normal octave plus a fifth sound from the afterlength . I still need to increase the afterlength by 0.75 mm . The Wittner can be shortened without disturbing the screw action.There would be the illusion that the Wittner already fits properly if you see the solid tailpiece at the end of the violin ,but the tail loop extends well away from the saddle . It would be possible to saw off at least 15mm and fit it level with the saddle --which would allow a much longer afterlength .
It ocurred to me that maybe the Wittner + had been designed to simply adjust the length of the tail loop and nothing more . But looking at the possible (flexible )loop adjustment (underneath) they would not be strictly adhering to the idea that the tail loop itself (underneath) must be a minimal length .
Would Wittners ever grace this forum to add their perspective ?

[John Cadd]

Second thoughts on the Wittner + screw .The overall length does not allow for a longer afterlength than 5.5 cm. It is 11.5cms long which is half a centimetre longer than the fine tuner version .
I changed to an ebony harp tailpiece and it allowed a longer afterlength at the D string ,That made me estimate the tail loop length and I was lucky to get the afterlength note for C# on the G string .(Also G# on the D string ).
If you use a 3/4 Wittner with tuners the length will the same as the ebony Harp 4/4 . The string spacing for 3/4 Wittners is the same as 4/4 .
Wittners should change to a longer screw that will have a nut screwed on the end with some loctite .That would allow any adjustment but never any chance of the screw coming adrift .

[John Cadd]

Ai has several suggestions for setting the afterlength but they mention Wittners as restricting the choices .Be wary of AI and keep your guard up .Sometimes double check the questions in a different way and you get the reverse answer .
One general grumble about most tailpieces is the slots are not wide enough to fit the ball end strings .This applies to Wittners as much as anyone else .The silk windings get jammed too easily and you notice the slots are wide enough for the metal string winding but the twisted part with silk wrapping needs the slot to be filed or cut wider . Files are not usually thin enough to do the job without using a knife first .
I don`t know of any thorough investigation of afterlength measurements.Some research might find a good result and simply stop there . Like --yes we`ll go with that .
All the testing of afterlengths can involve string removal to reduce the amount of peg unwinding ,especially with geared pegs -- just to have room to take out the end pin .
The cramped windings in the slots means you have to unwind the peg enough to get the string out of the slot(over and inch).If the slot has been just wide enough to slide the metal winding in the slot you can use a rat tail file just at the front end to allow for the twisted bit plus the silk to fit properly . All such a pallaver that makers need to think about .