Violin Forum/Message Board

[Chad48309]

Having never stored and seasoned my own wood before, I was wondering what are the best guidelines for doing so with blanks? Anybody have any input on this?
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-C.S.

[Chet Bishop]

I don't know whether I can accurately play back what Bruce Harvey told me when I called with all my questions about how to salvage the wood I was given, but I will try:

1. Get the bark off immediately, as that is a primary source of fungus (too late in my case, as it has been down for months).

2. Cut the wood into billets immediately and wax the ends (I used anchorseal-- a water-base wax emulsion). BTW, I found on the internet a comment that a borax/water solution can be sprayed on the wood, all over, to discourage fungus and mold. I shared this with Bruce and he seemed to think it was a good idea...but the ends have to be sealed, or the billets will split.

3. Choose a dry place (basement, garage, whatever), preferably with a source of electricity, and lay down 2" x 2" strips on which to stack the wood.

4. Place the billets across the 2" x 2" strips, not touching one another, laying on their sides, then the next layer cross-ways to the first layer, so that air-space is automatically included, and vertical as well as horizontal air movement is essentially unrestricted. Stack them as high as your head, if you have that much, and move to another pile. If the billets are not the traditional wedge-shaped chunks, but one-piece backs, for instance, you will have to provide additional "stickers" (strips of 1" x 1"), between the layers, so that the wood can dry.

5. Place a large, household box-fan face-down on top of the pile, and turn it on. Leave it there for at least a week, maybe two, before turning it off. Air circulation is critical. If the area is unheated, it would be helpful to put a small heater in the area as well, for that period of time.

6. A great deal of water will come off from the wood, so you will need to open the area at least once a day to let the room air dry out, or you will have a serious moisture problem.

Bruce said that after a week or two, you should not have to continue the fan treatment, as the wood will be fairly stable by that time. How long you store it before using it is up to you. Mostly what I have heard is five years, minimum, but apparently dendrochronological study has indicated that Joe Guarneri sometimes used wood only two years cut, so choose your path according to your lights.

There are gadgets out there by which to gauge wood moisture. Once it has been really dry, the re-humidification and re-drying that naturally occurs seasonally contributes to ultimate stability, and is the reason we call it "seasoning" wood, when we allow it to do so.

I hope this helps.

Chet
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Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com

[DonLeister]

Hi CS,

For storing wood a reasonably dry, ventilated area is good, on a concrete floor may not be as dry as say a rack or shelf up off the ground.
If you are thinking outside in a shed, up in the rafters would be my choice.
I often put my wood in the attic of my house for a few months to dry well at a slightly higher temperature before I bring it back into the shop.
Bear in mind it should acclimate to your shop climate for many weeks before you use it to encourage stability.