Violin Forum/Message Board

BK · Member Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60

eeek... I'm a little nervous about that one. I spent so much time getting the ribs formed and glued, I'd hate to break them.

John Cadd · Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:17 pm Post subject:

If you release the centre blocks first the shape will relax and allow the top and bottom blocks to come away. If you try to release the top or bottom blocks first it will be too tight and might give you a problem. I only thought of that recently so I must have chosen lucky the previous times. I was never conscious about it before. I prefer to squeeze a thin blunt knife in the gap and wiggle it till I hear the crack. Does anyone bother to line up the grain direction in the centre blocks in any way? I have just tried with the grain following the outline shape. I never tried that before either.

John Cadd · Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 6:29 pm Post subject:

I doubled up a message here so to replace it I can mention an awful video I saw where a block plane is being pushed straight forward to shave down the rib blocks. If the blocks are sticking up very high mark the parts to be removed and use a small saw which cuts flat to a surface and has no outward bend in the teeth. Then use a fine block plane in a swivelling action so the cutting edge is moving across the wood. Pushing forward as in the video will knock it all out of position and cause accidents to the blocks.

BK · Member Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 60

OK, that's a great tip amezcua. Thanks!

Do you also use alcohol in addition to the flat knife? I've heard you can use alcohol in order to aid the process a bit. Haven't tried it though.

John Cadd · Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject:

No I never tried that myself. Stradivarius` methods are described in the outstanding Roger Hargrave article mentioned above. He provided small holes to use for releasing the blocks .Take time to read all about Guarnerius in that too as his making methods take your breath away. He even mentions the random arrangement of wood grain in the corner blocks. (I just asked about that in another post above before I read it .)
The linings that are sunk into the centre blocks can be fitted in many ways. Guarnerius (mentioned in the article above ) made cuts with his knife and pared down the lining to a point like a wedge .It will hold it`s shape as well that way.A very narrow chisel wiggled into place will give you a cleaner squarer inset. Normally the inset is not done to the top or bottom block. Guarnerius made his linings from split wood so he could split the excess off with a clear conscience. He didn`t give a damn did he?