Violin Forum/Message Board

ctviolin · Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 12:16 pm Post subject:

Anyway, here I set the gap at 4.5 mm so that when I mark the plate with drilling to that depth, I can get rid of ALL of the drilled hole marks, and wind up right about 4 mm all over the plate and a smooth surface to work.

And then I'll work from that point on, with a slight exaggerated care for the actual final thickness.

Leaving me plenty of extra room to work down to what I really want .
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Ken Pollard · Posted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 3:42 pm Post subject:

Nice thickness wedge, Craig -- big and (probably) easy to find, maybe even in a messy shop like mine.

I generally just use some piece of stock about the thickness I want. I stopped using my drill press after punching through a plate when the stop slipped. But I am using a cheap Sears bench-top drill press (and a heavy hand, apparently). If I had a better machined drill press, I might reconsider.

I don't even use the drill press to rough out the pegbox evacuation any more, just a U-gouge. It goes pretty fast, eliminates the jig set-up time, and reduces my apparent power-tool misuse issues.

I rough scoop the plates down with a big #7 sweep gouge and my thumb-forefinger caliper. I use the Strad-type graduation punch (via Michael D's version) to get the last little bit down, then turn it over to a dial caliper. The first 95% come off about as fast as the last 5%.

kjb · Super Member Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385

What I do with the drill press stop issue,

I don't use the stop. I run the drill all the way down so there is no slippage, I have not tried the foster bit but that sounds interesting. thanks for the info

Mat Roop · Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 10:36 am Post subject:

Ken Pollard · Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 11:28 am Post subject:

ctviolin · Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 4:55 pm Post subject:

Well, here you can see the leather tab that's on my post also - it shows in the last photo, but it does look like a bare end on that post, but actually isn't. Also I've drilled depth holes here. I can tell right away that the belly is a bit deep, but will continue on with it anyway.

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ctviolin · Posted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:07 pm Post subject:

Mounted, ready to rough out;

gouging the excess out - this really does go rather quickly - carve - vacuum up scraps, carve - vacuum up scraps, done - about one to one and a half hours.

Slightly over 4 mm - Ready for the final thicknessing

[/i]
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L P Reedy · Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 8:16 pm Post subject:

Back to gauge holes for a moment. I've tried a number of drill bits but the only ones I've found useful were home made: a spoon bit for round bottom holes and a D-bit for true flat bottom. I like these because I don't depend on setting the gap, I want to measure how deep I'm going with a thickness caliper. I do have a squared-end regular twist bit but the D-bit works better.

Mat Roop · Posted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 9:40 pm Post subject:

LP... I'm missing something here... how do you measure how deep you are going with a thickness caliper? How does that work when every hole practically is of a different depth?
would you have a pic of your setup?
Sorry for my blockheadedness!
Thanks, Mat

kjb · Super Member Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385

I like the size of the work board, mine is more of a frame , I think I will change that.

ctviolin · Posted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:36 am Post subject:

ctviolin · Posted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:54 am Post subject:

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L P Reedy · Posted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 6:17 pm Post subject:

Mat, just confusing wording. I don't really measure the hole depth, I measure the thickness between the bottom of the hole and the other side of the plate. That's hard to do with a pointed bit because the caliper doesn't reach the bottom of the hole. I think I prefer the way the D-bit cuts now but my largest is only 1/4" diameter. I need one slightly larger for some of my calipers.

Lyle

kjb · Super Member Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385

do you make your own d bits or buy them ??
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http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/d-bits-154906/