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A question or inquiry about curly maple vs sound
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Clifford Green
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Talk about putting the heart of the tree over the soul of the instrument!
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ctviolin
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey!

Wait a minute now.

That belly's a really well SLABBED piece of *what* again?


Yes, I've seen this photo before from you - but don't believe I've ever figured out what the slabbed belly piece was? I've glotta admit that, that's one hell of a cool piece of belly wood showing.

90% tilt from quartered? (and yet, when looking at the fore edge, you'd think that that slab, was damn near quartered...)
You'd think it would collapse of its own transgression of the "usual."

??

Cello, right? Unreal.
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Last edited by ctviolin on Mon Jun 17, 2013 2:42 pm; edited 1 time in total
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R Mac
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clifford Green wrote:
Talk about putting the heart of the tree over the soul of the instrument!


Laughing

Mac
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rabn
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This discussion is exactly what I had hoped for. As a newbie, with only two under my belt and working on three more and restoration, I wanted to hear from as many experienced luthiers as possible.
How many people use density or tapping to decide on whether to use the wood or not?
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ctviolin
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rabn wrote:

How many people use density or tapping to decide on whether to use the wood or not?


Always.


(...well, tapping is a habitual thing I do, and have always done, and I will tap on the back and belly wood before using them. Not for any particular note or magic pitch relationship - but that for me is where it all starts.)
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L P Reedy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rabn wrote:

How many people use density or tapping to decide on whether to use the wood or not?

I never use either one.
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neither for me. I've had so many unexpectedly good results from using pieces of wood that "shouldn't" work that I no longer believe ANY of the myths. I take the next piece off the pile and make a violin.

Over the course of around 170+ violins, I've replaced just one or two tops that didn't seem to work out. Along the way I've gotten really great results from a couple of things that weren't supposed to work at all--like a violin where the top cut like pith. The best guitar I ever made, the top was so floppy laterally that you could roll the top up into a 4-inch tube before I braced it.

A lot of the wood myth is based on more-is-better, without really knowing what makes better instruments. I remember when violin makers were all chasing the lowest density top wood that they could find, in a less-is-better fad, then five years later, none of them were doing it, because it turned out not to be working well. But the idea SOUNDED good, in theory, so it must have been true.
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DonLeister
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"How many people use density or tapping to decide on whether to use the wood or not?"

Well, I know sugar maple is rather dense, or heavy, so I don't use it kowing that I would have to make it thinner than I am comfortable with, to get it in a weight range that I want.
Sometimes I'll tap on a plate just out of curiosity but I quit measuring the tap tones, I do record the weight of the finished plates. I always worried whether the taptones were right or not, it took up time and no one seemed to care None of my clients ever asked either. Ultimately I had to deal with what the instrument was doing once it was finished and that , I'm rambling, sorry. You get the picture.
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fjodor
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any top wood you would consider too heavy to use? I heard an advice from a good maker that it is important to choose light wood for the top. On the latest violin I used spruce that was very low density but with super thick graduations. It seems to have worked ok. I have now an old top that I measured to be 0.47 g/cm3, otherwise a lovely piece of wood but considerably heavier than anything else I have used so I am a bit hesitant to try it.
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ctviolin
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fjodor wrote:
Is there any top wood you would consider too heavy to use? I heard an advice from a good maker that it is important to choose light wood for the top.



Well, this is one thing that I decided early on...

Really - it doesn't matter much beyond what the individual prefers - and, what they learned.

after using Sitka Spruce for many of my first violins, I went and had a vacation here in New Mexico, where one of my stops was to visit a tone wood dealer who specialized in dealing Engelmann Spruce.

We talked for quite a while about what was required for a great piece of belly wood (he sold from mandolin/violin size pieces - up to guitar and the occasional cello piece)

Quartering, split, run out, tree size, elevation - etc.
I know it was good Engelmann. He was supplying many tone wood dealers also. But the fact is, that since I had become used to Sitka, I couldn't really make it work well for me after buying a decent supply.

My thoughts were that, perhaps any well chosen instrument wood was fine to use, but that if you built for a specific quality in the belly wood, then, most likely, you'd have to change very many details in your construction methods, to correctly use a wood that was very different - property wise - from what you had used to come to a particular workable "method".

Most all of the Sitka I have seen and used, is rather dense and heavy wood - for a Spruce, and most of the Engelmann wood I have seen or bought, and tried, was very light and, oh, I don't know, I guess I'd have to say almost "fluffy"" in a way - compared to the Sitka. Don't misunderstand me, well quartered it is amazingly strong and well suited to violins. It was me that had a problem with the wood, not the wood.

Eventually I sold off the Engelmann, and stuck with the Sitka, but many makers I have met, love working with the light (but still very stiff) Engelmann...

Go figure.
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm tending to think that what you do with the wood is more important than the wood. I had a bad time with Engelmann, but I worked it to my standard dimensions at the time; now I'd keep it a whole lot thicker, perhaps using weight as a measure. Heavy wood has never been a problem; though I haven't tried Sitka, I think I could probably make it work.

The problem with Engelmann was lack of a complex sound, which may just have been a lack of substance in the top.
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actonern
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just saw the cello top (Michael's photo.)

That's amazing!

It does appear, however, that the big shot makers of the golden period did discriminate in their wood choices on aesthetic grounds. The instruments made for royalty an other lofty clients always seem to have choice pretty wood. No better acoustically, perhaps, but it seems that then, as now, there is an "eye candy" component to material choice.
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fjodor
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ctviolin wrote:
fjodor wrote:
Is there any top wood you would consider too heavy to use? I heard an advice from a good maker that it is important to choose light wood for the top.



Well, this is one thing that I decided early on...

Really - it doesn't matter much beyond what the individual prefers - and, what they learned.



Thanks for your thoughts CT. For me I'm just beginning the learning path having made just tree violins and finished up some unfinished violins. So it's useful with different perspectives. I've used Engelmann on two violins and european spruce on one. Always light weight. The violins have all been different models so it's hard to draw any conclusions on the tonal properties of the wood. I guess it's things you learn along the way (building the same model preferably).

Lately I have building up my tonewood stack by buying mostly online. For example from different ebay dealers.

Buying online can be a bit of a gamble. On one occasion I bought ten 30 year old tops on Ebay and thought I made a good deal. It turned out that 9 of the tops had so much runout that they were unusable, the one that was usable was that heavy piece.

Recently I bought some maple from a Romanian traveling wood dealer.
It's nice to be able to see and hold the wood before you buy.

An online shop i can recommend is http://www.drewbas-tonewood.eu/ in Poland. I bought both spruce and maple from there and they have had a friendly service and nice wood. The pieces are relatively fresh cut so you have to store them some years before use, I think.

I have also had good experience with Simeon Chambers on ebay.
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