Violin Forum/Message Board

kjb · Super Member Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385

I notice this split in the wood after scraping. I am at the height that pretty much matches the back. I have not started the inside yet.

1. I can't tell how far back it goes but it looks to be on the surface.

2. If I bring the top lower then the back by a fair amount will I be cutting down on the slim chance of making a good sounding violin.

3. If I leave it and find it does not go through can I just try to get some glue in there.

thanks for any help on this. hoping I don't have to ditch the whole top
trying to get the pic working from photo bucket

actonern · Super Member Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444

That kind of damage can happen from the shear stress of the tree bending acutely as it's falling down from being cut... it most likely goes a distance, and the problem also is that you may have areas that have not visibly let go that are compromised as well...

It's a couple of days work to make a new one???

I have a beautiful cello top from the swiss alps that I can't use for that reason...it's really irritating.

pmccombs · Member Joined: 15 Jan 2013 Posts: 87 Location: Utah

What would be the risk of injecting thin hide glue into a crack like that? I had one like it by an f-hole once, and I just flexed it open a bit and needled in some hide glue. After it dried, I couldn't even tell there had been a crack. Isn't this just a repair?

Michael Darnton · Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:00 pm Post subject:

On a top I'd pump glue in, clamp it and cross my fingers. I probably would not do that on a back, though. You do run the risk of more showing up elsewhere, farther along, though.
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Michael Darnton · Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:31 pm Post subject:

Wait, I take that back---by a longitudinal split you mean a crack, in line with the grain, right? Throw it out. I was thinking of another type of crack. . . .
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pmccombs · Member Joined: 15 Jan 2013 Posts: 87 Location: Utah

kjb,

Here is the image you tried to link earlier.... Hope it helps. Wink

kjb · Super Member Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385

thanks yes that is the one.

so it is a wall hanging now?

Michael Darnton · Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2013 3:46 pm Post subject:

That's the type I'd try to glue, but I wouldn't become too attached to it.
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kjb · Super Member Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385

ha,ha , thanks I will give it a shot and see what develops , thanks again. kevin

kubasa · Member Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212

I saw this over on the other forum. Wish I would have started here first. Actually I wish this topic would have come up 2 months ago. I just had a plate with the same issue so shame on me for not asking a couple months ago. My split went almost all the way through to the other side. How do I know this? Well, it was like having a scab and I couldn't stay away from it! You will have to let us know how it turns out. It'll be a good lesson for me for next time. The only consolation is that I wasn't nearly as far along as you are when I found my split.

Michael Darnton · Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2013 4:57 pm Post subject:

It never hurts to try. There's always a big chance things like this won't work, but when they do, it's nice. At worst, you'll have to make a new top. It's good practice. A natural crack is the best kind of interlocking glue joint, though. As long as you know what you're possibly in for, you learn stuff by trying things like this to see what works and what doesn't. I don't like relying on other peoples' experience--you never know how competent, or smart . . . or lucky they were.
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kubasa · Member Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212

You are right Michael. I still have the tendency to "throw it to the wind" when something like this happens but I really need to just stop for a while and think before doing something I might regret.

Kevin's plate looks real nice and mostly done so hopefully he will be able to save his!

kjb · Super Member Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385

I found the other side of the shake, so I took the top down to get rid of them.
this brings my top to 12mm in height, my back is 15 which is high I think.

is there a way to judge the relationship. or is this one of those variable answers that depends on lots of things?

is there an acceptable range between the two, I see a lot of variations, but I have only really seen mediocre violins.

at this point I am not concerned about saving this top , but if I can use it I will. I plan to make another using this mold and I could hang on to it till I make a back that is lower also. thanks kevin

L P Reedy · Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:28 pm Post subject:

Not that it helps, but the "Messiah" arch heights are 15.4 back and 13.8 belly.

Michael Darnton · Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:57 pm Post subject:

It's OK for the top to be lower, but I haven't had very good luck with very low tops. Be sure to leave it thick, especially at the ends.
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